Hur du tar hand om PUL blöjor

Procare and PUL are 2 different materials made by 2 different companies.

PUL was originally made for the medical community and in fact is still made for the medical community. It is made to be autoclaved.

The spec sheets that are specific for PUL sent out by the company, specifically state that you may not only dry the PUL but you can also iron the PUL, non-shiny side only.

The best way to describe the PUL itself is that it is made up of tiny rods like this: I these rods are standing and fill all the nooks and crannies of the fabric, both poly and cotton. Over time, with normal washing the rods fall down like this: --- When they fall down they are no longer in all of the nooks which can cause wicking through the fabric.

This can happen on both cotton and poly. The reason it is most noticeable on cotton is because poly naturally repels water, so although it will eventually wick through the fabric holes, it will not wick as fast as the cotton does.

By drying the PUL you are heating it, the way it was meant to be originally treated, and you are in effect re-generating the rods, making them stand back up. This is why when you have a good diaper (non-repelling etc) that is suddenly wicking through the diaper and you dry it a couple times it is all of a sudden all better.

PUL itself has no fabric content and the laminate "should" not wear out. This depends on the fabric and how the fabric behaves, but has nothing to do with the PUL itself.

Cotton PUL fabrics wear faster than solid PUL fabrics just because of the fabric, not the PUL. Just like your favorite t-shirt, it will wear faster than your most dreaded poly pants that never seem to die. It is the difference between a natural fabric vs. man-made. When someone buys a cotton print, they are typically washing it 3 times a week, more than you would wash a favorite t-shirt, so it only makes sense as to why the fabric itself would begin to fail, develop holes etc. It also depends on detergents, other additives to the wash, water content, and how often it is actually washed. Your solid PUL should last forever unless it gets a run.

The 1000 washes, is basically a CYA type of thing. It is kind of like bummis who says that their diapers need to be replaced every 3 months. They will most likely last much longer, but to CYA they recommend something different.

There have been issues with dried PUL and it melting. The products who have had this problem have had PUL that was purchased outside of the US and there were other factors, it was not the same as our PUL purchased in the states and 99% of your PUL products. The issues with bubbling and de-laminating of PUL has nothing to do with the PUL but instead with changes in the fabric and/or dye content. Certain dye colors will almost always lead to eventual de-laminating. If this happens the diaper will work just fine, unless the PUL is snagged. Bubbling usually happens from the fabric not being completely shrunk(is that a word).

PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE IF YOU ARE A WAHM, STOP THE INSANITY, STOP TELLING THEM NOT TO DRY THEIR PUL. This is counter-productive to your product, will cause you problems in the long run, and continues to fuel inaccuracies with in the community which leads to confusion for the customers.

Pro-care, is very different than PUL and is made with similar materials used in fire retardants. There are some who disagree, if you use this, please know it is a very different product.

Your PUL should outlast your diaper, if your diaper is wicking through the diaper, throw it in the dryer on high heat. Also, always wash on high heat, this decreases stink in fleece and hemp, and also works in keeping your PUL functioning 100%.

All of my suggestions are made based on experience and talking with people who have been around since the early wahm days, and in having long talks with the manufacturers. Not just the reps who will tell you what they think, but the actual manufacturers.

Finally, both 1 mil and 2 mil PUL are breathable. 1 mil is more breathable than 2 mil, but they are both breathable.

HTH